A Slow Scenic Journey Into Himachal: Stories From a Talwara-Jassur Bus Ride: Travel Diary: Part 2

 Changing Village Architecture and Lifestyle in Kangra

        Even though the bus from Delhi to Chamba runs on a long route, the moment it entered Himachal Pradesh, it began stopping at every village bus stop. Because of this, the journey was moving slowly and steadily. When I spoke to the Himachali man travelling beside me, he told me that the population along the Talwara–Jassur road had increased significantly. People from the inner villages had started settling closer to the main road because livelihood opportunities exist along the road. He added that buying property along this stretch has now become very expensive.

        While I was asking him about village life, a large dome-shaped tank-like structure appeared near the next bus stop. My fellow passenger explained that the government has supplied drinking water to every village, and households receive tap water. Referring to his own village, Makdoli, he mentioned that water reached there during the tenure of Punjab’s Chief Minister Pratap Singh Kairon. Before the formation of the Punjabi-speaking state, this entire Kangra region of Himachal Pradesh used to be a part of Punjab. He also said that the government has installed tube wells to extract groundwater, and the water is supplied to big village tanks, from where it goes to individual houses. Besides this, a few tube wells have also been installed specifically for irrigation.

        In the areas near the Pong Dam, groundwater is shallow, but as you move towards higher regions, the water level becomes much deeper. His village lies west of the main road about 30 kilometers away from the Pong Dam. He said that his region is considered drought-prone because the groundwater there is quite deep.

        There is considerable habitation on both sides of the road. Villages appear very close to one another, although their size is small. Traditional sloped roofs—once a hallmark of hill houses—are now rarely seen. Most homes are solid, modern structures with concrete roofs, reflecting the improved economic condition of the people.

        The same fellow passenger told me that this region sees very few tourists, and most locals either serve in the army or work outside in government or private jobs. Meanwhile, their families continue to live in the villages. He himself has been working in Delhi for 42 years.

        While talking, he also spoke about this bus route. He said that ever since he moved to Delhi, this route has been running. The bus leaves Delhi at 10:30 pm, reaches Talwara by 9 am, and arrives in Chamba by evening. Interestingly, despite better roads today, the travel time has not changed—the journey still takes as long as it did 40 years ago.

        From Jassur, the bus was supposed to go to Chamba via Pathankot. A passenger traveling to Pathankot was seated in the row ahead of us. My companion gently advised him that this was not the right route if he intended to go to Pathankot. He said one could reach Pathankot four hours earlier via the Delhi–Ludhiana–Pathankot route. The man who had been silently sitting earlier had now become cheerful and talkative, perhaps encouraged by the sight of his homeland’s valleys.

To be continued…

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